Irresponsible, Fortalezian Sunburn. (Brazil day 5)

It is great not to have to wake up to an alarm for once, and so as one would expect in such a situation I was awake, up and about by 6h00. The hotel room gets seriously cold with the aircon on and you end up waking up shivering at 5am in one of the most tropical climates in the world.

The hotel is an immaculate structure. The lobby, sensationally cool, calm and serene with waterfalls and in pools in scattered about the floor area. The sound of water is amazingly soothing. Goldfish and Koi cruise aimlessly about, the setting seems ideal for a late night Caipirinha.

Breakfast at this type of establishment is always a decadent affair. Papaya, watermelon, plums, pineapple and many more fruit are broadly displayed. The selection of confectionery is also impressive. Not as grand as what one would see in Bologna, but definitely worth sampling. While eating I noticed two gentlemen speaking to each other in Afrikaans, it’s incredible who you can meet in completely random settings.

Heading out to the beach later, one is overcome by the desire to sit back, watch the surf and enjoy a cold beer at one of the numerous beach restaurants. An umbrella, plastic table and chair are all that’s required to chill in this tropical environment… Oh yes don’t forget the beer. The beaches here are really great. Calm warm water, good quality sand and a low density of the local population makes it rather attractive.

Fortaleza beach

A few locals wander around peddling their goods. Almost anything is on offer here, prawns, sunscreen, cigarettes, T-shirts. Everyone is talking about the World cup 2014 here, and flags being sold all round. The most random item being sold seemed to be tattoos. Not just small stick-on random ones, these are the real needle punching affair. It’s not often that one thinks while lying on the beach “Dolphin” must get a Dolphin tattooed across my bum, but obviously some do. The purpose of these tattoo “artists” meandering around becomes clear soon after politely turning down the offer for some weird Chernobyl spider. The artist promptly sat down and announced he also had marijuana and cocaine on offer…tattoo’s se voet! Thanks, no thanks, Allez!!

Chatting to a gentleman under the umbrella next to me, drugs seem to be quite prevailing in the area. This beach is quite a local beach and not used much by tourists (I’m impressed with my find). Carmen is originally from Switzerland and has been living here for the last eight years. We speak about his love for this country, his Brazilian family and all the best regions to go visit. He speaks of Olinda near Recife, and a 5 day boat trip up the Rio Negro leaving from Manaus. The end destination not to be overshadowed by 500 people on a boat with 3 toilets. A leftist hippy of old he speaks of Europe with contempt and there appears to be no reason for him to head back.

Our conversation is interrupted by another prawn salesman walking past. The Brazilian citizen in general are extremely friendly, we have no intention of buying anything for this bloke but he stops and chats, Carmen chats along in Portuguese and jokes with the guy. They talk for a full five minutes before shaking hands and parting ways. There is none of the Northern Europe impatience seen here, a stark lack of the commonly seen self-centredness that dominates so much back in the UK. A simple but shocking contrast of how a smile and a little eye contact can create amicability between thousands of diverse individuals. As the man heads off he says something loosely translated as “if God wills”, Carmen mocks him gently saying the locals all say this, “If God wills”, smiling as he explains there is no God. My dear Carmen, “if God wills”, you will meet Him soon.

Around sunset, about a hundred trailers show up on the esplanade and start setting up for an evening market. Everything is Brazilian making a refreshing change to the usual “Made in China” cliché. Brazilian carvings, course cotton dresses, shoes, fridge magnets, cashew nuts, Brazil nuts and many other random original Brazilian sales goods.

Wood carvings in the night market

The night life is vibrant and loud, people milling around, the restaurants and bars are heaving on Saturday night in Fortaleza. 

Randoms for sale
Small trailers forming the alley ways

2 thoughts on “Irresponsible, Fortalezian Sunburn. (Brazil day 5)

  1. What a wonderful Blog !!! I cannot wait for the next episode. I have printed out the blog for a few of friends wh are also saying…keep it rolling:) One friend said that he now wants to travel to S America to see for himself


  2. The entire range of laughs happened to me during this post: wry/cocked eyebrow half-smile, knowing smirk, giant guffawing, prolonged chuckles! Thanks, boet, for another entertaining and enriching post: the photos and words took me straight onto the beer-begging beach, and had me wishing at the night-market that I hadn’t forgotten my wallet in the hotel!


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